Hello once again.
Thank you all for the overwhelming response to the last post. Everyone I sent it to seem to enjoy it quite a bit, so let's keep the train going.
I'll be covering weeks 4-7, which includes the Golden Week which is what the majority of this post is deticated too. I'll explain what that is in a bit, but first...
If you recall, I joined the school's Wind Orchestra Club. It's been a lot of fun to play, even if it's with a small group. In celebration of the start of the semester, the University Student Association set up a series of performances from various clubs on campus. It's a good way for groups to promote themselves while also putting on a show. There was a stage set up outside the main student plaza where everyday clubs would perform during the lunch period. Only three rehearsals after I joined, it was our turn to play. Even though we didn't have that much time to prepare, I think we did quite well. All of the Japanese students in the club are really great musicians and the music wasn't anything difficult so we were all able to play our parts relatively effortlessly.
The only issue we ran into was we didn't know which group members would actually be there to perform. It wasn't mandatory and some people have other obligations during the short lunch period so there are valid reasons to miss it. The music we are playing is written for a whole Wind Orchestra, so if we are missing some instruments, it could mean we are missing some really important parts of the music. Luckily, we ended up having more people than we anticipated so we had a full sound which was really neat.
Few notes about my experience in the club so far for those interested. There are a lot of differences to how the Japanese students practice versus what I'm used too. For example, not only do they always use a metronome when practicing, but they use the old school wind-up, rod moving back and forward metronome. I'll be honest, I don't think I've ever actually seen someone use that style of metronome since everyone I've ever encountered just uses a smartphone app or in some cases (like in Marching Band practice) a dedicated electronic metronome device. I find it quite humorous how every few minutes they have to wind up the metronome as if that problem hasn't already been solved. On the flip side, they almost never use a tuner. The only time we did any sort of tuning was right before the performance, that is it. I think this may be that they are taught to rely on their ear more than a tuner, which is a good thing in my book.
For your entertainment, I have acquired some videos of our performance. They were recorded on someone's phone, so the audio quality isn't the best but it's good enough. I am the second on the right if you are having trouble finding me. If you are looking at this on a phone, tapping the video will most likely take you to another page. I apologize for the inconvenience. Please enjoy!
Here we play excerpts from two songs, a march called Arsenal and the Duke Ellington Jazz standard, Take the A Train. To say I was surprised to see one of the most American songs in our Japanese repertoire, especially one I've played dozens of times, is an understatement to say the least. There is about a minute of the Japanese students talking about something in the middle, so have fun deciphering that.
This one is the theme song to a popular Japanese Anime (which is just the term for Japanese animated TV shows) called Spy X Family. You could tell people recognized this one because all the people who were eating lunch started paying attention. It's a fun piece.
I am not sure when/if we will preform again. From what I've heard, not only do we just not have enough people in the club to warrant a large performance, but performance opportunities are still few a far between with COVID restrictions just recently being lifted in Japan. I'm optimistic that we'll play at least one more time before I leave though.
For those unaware, Golden Week is a week where several Japanese Holidays happen back to back. Because of this, most people tend to get a week of vacation time. Of course, this isn't universally true (restaurants, shops and such are still open), but since Japanese work culture doesn't tend to provide time off, it is the prime time of year to travel for the average Japanese person.
As a student, this meant we got a few days off of school. Due to the way the holidays landed on the calendar this year, we only got 3 days off plus the weekend which is less than usual, but I can't complain. Most importantly for me was that my Mom was coming to Japan and we planned to travel to various places together. So here are all the places we went too.
If you remember from my last post, I already went to Kyoto. However, I had planned on going with Mom long before I knew I would have the chance to go with the school, so I was going for a second time. This was fine however because we got to see much more than I did for the few hours I was there.
The logistics of arriving in Kyoto was interesting. My Mom had flown into Tokyo and took the Shinkansen (Bullet Train) from there to Kyoto, and I did the same from Nagoya. Here is a picture from the platform while waiting for the train to Kyoto. It's all open so you can see the city in the background. For reference on how fast the Shinkansen is, the bus I previously took to get to Kyoto took 3 hours, the Shinkansen only took 30 minutes. Pretty wild.
We were staying in an AirBNB that my Mom found. It was a traditional Japanese home with sliding doors and tatami (straw) mats. It was managed by the nicest Japanese lady named Yoko. She gave us tips on where to go, where to eat, how to get there etc. This was her house growing up and she converted it into a guest house a few years ago. It has all the traditional Japanese fixings, which is become less and less common. There were many rules about what we were and weren't allowed to touch or use. It was a small little cozy place. My only complaint was there was no breakfast.
We didn't really have a set plan on where we wanted to go, but we had a list of a bunch of places and we tried to go to the ones we could.
First on the list was the Kyoto Imperial Palace. Brief Japanese history lesson, Kyoto used to the be the capital of Japan. In Japan, the capital is wherever the Emperor resides, and for many many years that was in Kyoto. It wasn't until 1868 that Tokyo became the capital, and that is very unlikely to change. So, this Imperial Palace was basically equivalent to the White House in that it was where the Imperial Family lived.
Of course, nowadays it's only a historic site, but it's still neat to walk around. The main palace itself is in the middle of this giant park. To get inside the palace grounds, you have to go through a small checkpoint where they check your temperature (remember, COVID procedures have only recently been getting lifted), search your bag and give you a badge with a number. I bring this up because that is by far the most security I've encountered anywhere in Japan (outside of the airport of course).
Quite honestly, there wasn't to much to do per se. You just walk around, see the exterior of the buildings (you're not allowed inside any of them) and then keep walking along the set path. If you try to diverge from the path, the guards there will block your way and point to where you need to go.
Here are some of the pictures I took.
Right outside the palace grounds, you'll see a big tree. At first this may just look like a normal tree, but if you look closely you'll see it's actually a really old tree. More than 300 years old! They had the entire tree supported by these (regular-aged) wooden crutches. There is a picture of the sign next to the tree, but sadly the characters were quite worn so it's a bit tricky to read, even in person. There's a metaphor for something somewhere in there.
Our next stop was Nijo Castle, which is was built in 1603 and was the residence of the Shogun until 1868. It's one of many UNESCO Word Heritage Sites in Japan.
Another brief Japanese history lesson. Back in the day, at the top of the social hierarchy was the Emperor as you may expect. However, under the Emperor was the Shogun, who was basically the country's military leader who was appointed by the Emperor. However, though the Emperor was technically in charge, the Shogun was the person really calling the shots. The Emperor was more of a figurehead. I'm simplifying the whole system because it a bit complicated and I don't really understand it all that much, but that's the basic idea. That whole system ended in 1868, which was the end of the Japanese Edo period and the start of westernization & modernization in Japan.
With that in mind, the people who resided in Nijo castle had much power than the people in the Imperial Palace, generally making it the more important location out of the two.
This was much more interesting in my opinion. One of the best parts is that you were allowed to go inside the main castle building. There were no photos allowed inside, so I'll do my best to describe it here. You had to take your shoes off and you walk in the halls looking into various rooms. Many of the spaces were waiting rooms for guests, and they all had different animal related themes such as tiger or crane. The wallpaper in the room would correspond with the animal. Interesting side-note, tigers are not domestic to Japan, so when they built the castle in 1603 and made the tiger room, they had no reference of what a tiger actually looked like. They did however have imported tiger hide, so they basically improvised and designed what they thought looked like a tiger. Pretty neat!
Some of the other rooms were designed with a certain purpose, like a meeting room and such. They had mannequins dressed up as Samurai and the Shogun in some rooms to help portray what occurred there. It sounds a lot creepier than it is, trust me it was really helpful.
Last thing about the inside. The moment we walked in, we noticed a bird chirping noise and were very confused. That confusion didn't last long because one of the first signs you see explains what the noise is. Over time, the nails holding the floorboards down have gotten loose which results in them rubbing against the wood whenever you take a step which creates the sound. It's really cool, and the sort of thing you don't generally see mentioned when discussing big landmarks like this.
The main gate. The gold details are apparently quite impressive.
The main castle itself. You can see people gathering to go inside.
Though the castle is the main attraction, there is a whole garden surrounding it which was very pretty. There was an elevated watch-tower like section near the back giving you an overhead view of the whole castle grounds.
On the left, you can see some scaffolding. They were doing some renovation on one of the other buildings.
At this point, we were starting to get hungry. My mom had found this place called Nishiki Market that was apparently quite famous. Let me tell you, this place was wild. There were so many people trying to get through what was essentially a narrow alleyway. In every direction there was a vendor of some sort, and the majority were selling seafood. I unfortunately didn't get too many pictures, so you'll have to use your imagination a bit.
Did you know, the first ever Wendy's is right here in the middle of Japan???????
If you remember, I was briefly at this temple during my last Kyoto trip. However, due to time, I wasn't able to explore the whole thing. So I was looking forward to seeing the rest of it. Turns out I was really missing out!
As a reminder, the whole district where it's located is centered around the temple itself. All the roads loosely lead up to it. Once you reach the top, you can see the the outside of the temple and walk around to your hearts content. Here are some pictures of that.
Previously, this is where I stopped. However, if you go deeper you will be able to go inside. There's a small fee of ¥400 (~$3.00), but it's well worth it. Once your inside, you are presented with the famous balcony as well some other attractions such as incense lighting, a feats of strength and some small gift shops. You don't realize it when your walking, but turns out you are pretty high up, giving your this beautiful overhead view of the city and surrounding landscapes.
The previously mentioned feats of strength. There was this metal road in a wooden contraption and people kept trying to pull it out. No one even got close.
These are Ema, which are small wooden blocks that people write prayers or wishes on which are then hung up throughout the temple. The amount of them here is quite staggering, and to my surprise, many were written in English.
Once you get past the balcony, there is a trail to another part of the temple that goes further up the mountain before taking you back down where you started. It really is a nice walk with a lot of interesting scenery.
This was some sort of water ritual you could do.
The giant Koi fish strike back!
Now onto the other famous temple in Kyoto. This is the one with the hundreds of red gates that take you up the mountain. This place was packed, with hundreds of people slowly going up. As you're walking through, the amount of gates really is quite staggering.
The main entrance.
These kitsune (fox) statues are all over the place.
Now, let me mention the process of trying to climb this thing. This is the map they have posted at the start of the mountain trail. Seems innocent enough. However, this has to be one of the most deceiving maps of all time. This makes it look like it's such a short journey, because after an hour of hiking, after hundreds of gates and stairs (way more than the map displays), we only got about a third of the way through. We then decided to end our journey there.
It's kind of genius when you think about it, since it makes it clear this is no short hike, but this map is so misleading.
Moral of the story, don't trust maps. Though there may or may not be free ice cream at the top, so hike at your own risk.
Our final stop in Kyoto was the Railway Museum. This museum is run by the major JR Railway companies and documents the entire history of the rail system in Japan. Since Japan has one of the most robust rail networks in the world, this is a very interesting place to explore. There is a lot to see, it's a massive 4 story complex and it has many interactive elements and even a whole kids section. We certainly didn't see everything, but we got the basic idea, lot of trains.
This is the thing on top of trains that touch a conductive wire to provide power.
This is the former Kyoto Station train junction, with many old school steam engines parked.
At the top of the building is a viewing platform where you can see all the trains going to and from Kyoto Station. It's quite impressive.
And just like that, our Kyoto adventure came to an end. I had to return to Nagoya for a few days to go to class while my Mom went on her own journey in Hiroshima. We met in Nagoya a few days later and then both continued on to Tokyo to continue our escapades.
In Tokyo, we were staying in the Shinjuku district, which is a very popular area. The 5 minute walk to our AirBNB quickly became a 20 minute traffic jam with the amount of people walking around. This picture doesn't do it justice, but you can see how many people are crammed on the sidewalk on the other side of the road.
Tokyo is certainly a busy place, and everyone being on vacation probably didn't help things. Though, this little stretch of road was the most congested area we encountered on the trip. Go figure.
I don't have any picutres of our room, but it was a small yet comfortable little space. Like other big cities, space is at a premium so we weren't expecting a giant room or anything. Once we were settled down, we started exploring. Similar to Kyoto, we didn't have a plan instead having a list of areas to check out. So we just went wherever we felt like at the moment. This approach meant we never really felt pressured to do anything, making it much more enjoyable to just walk around stress free. The flipside is sometimes we felt like didn't have much to do or we didn't know what do to, but I think it still turned out well.
After we first arrived, we decided to explore a nearby area and we decided on Higashi-Ikebukuro. When we arrived however, everything said "Welcome to Sunshine City", so I guess that's where we were. It's a pretty typical Tokyo district, with tall buildings, bright lights and lots of people. You'll find that a lot of Tokyo is like that. We explored a bit, went into some shops and ate some food before returning back to our room.
The anime Detective Conan was all over the place here. It's a very popular series, and there was a new movie releasing, so you could see his funny little face everywhere.
We stopped by a Book-Off, a popular chain of used book stores (very similar to McKay's for my North Carolina people). They have a lot more than just books, so it's a good place to look for Japanese exclusive media.
I mentioned we planned very little, there is one big exception to that which is the Ghibli Museum. For those unaware, Studio Ghibli is Japan's most respected and well known animation studio. They've been around for more than 35 years and have made some of Japan's most iconic films such as My Neighbor Totoro and Spirited Away, the latter of which was the highest grossing film in Japan for almost 20 years. I'm a big fan of the studio, having seen all of their movies, so going to the museum was a no brainer.
I had to buy the tickets ahead of time, which was a slight challenge since they are highly sought after, but I managed to get them with some luck. The museum opened in 2001 and is located in Inokashira Park in Mitaka. The entire surrounding area is nothing but nature, which is entirely by design and gives the whole museum a very unique backdrop.
Sadly, no pictures are allowed inside the museum, so all my photos are of the outside. The museum consists of several exhibits relating to the Studio and is filled with original storyboards, concept art and actual hand drawn frames from the films. As a fan, it's fascinating seeing all the little details about how the films were made. There is another exhibit about the principles of animation with some really amazing showcases of how animation works using fast moving figurines. I hope that makes sense, it's a bit hard to describe without photo reference but I guess that's the point, you have to see it for yourself.
They also have some rotating exhibits. You are able to watch a short film produced by the studio at the in-house movie theater. The film playing when we were there was Koro no Daisanpo which is about a lost dog trying to find his way home. It was very cute and was easy to follow even without knowing Japanese. The other limited time exhibit was about a show call Future Boy Conan. While it wasn't made by the studio, it was directed by Hayao Miyazaki (who is one of the founders and main contributors to Studio Ghibli) and is a foundation to a lot of his later works.
Lastly, there is the café and gift shop both of which are great. The gift shop has a lot of neat exclusive merchandise (some of which we bought) and the café has a surprisingly large selection good tasting food. They also have several neat photo ops throughout the park, the standout one being the life sized statue of the Robot Soldier character from the movie Castle in the Sky on the roof of the museum.
All and all, it was a great experience. I think even my Mom, who has very little knowledge on the studio and it's works, seemed to enjoy it. Luckily, this is not my last interaction with Studio Ghibli for this trip. They recently opened Ghibli Park just down the road from my university and I got tickets to go in July. I'm very excited and I'll be sure to report on it when I go. Again, I only have photos from outside, but I hope you can appreciate the unique architecture of this one of a kind museum.
Words can't express how cool this statue is.
Our neighborly purchase from the gift shop.
Back in Shinjuku, my Mom discovered the Tokyo Metropolitan Government Building. As boring as that sounds, it's actually really neat because the 45th floor is an observation floor open to the public. It allows you to get an overhead view of the city, which is quite amazing. Downside is, the line to get in is quite long. We waited about 30 minutes, but luckily it was shaded so it was no big deal.
Once we got to the floor, it was much nicer than I was expecting. It almost felt like a mini club or something. They had a café in the center where you could buy drinks, food and Pikachu plushies (because Japan). They even had a piano where anyone could jump in line to play a peice, and some amazing players were providing a nice musical backdrop to the floor. I didn't take any pictures of the floor itself, I was too pre-occupied with the view out the windows. It really gives you a sense of how massive Tokyo is, it just keeps on going and going.
This is the Tokyo Metropolitan Government Building from the ground.
Next up is Shibuya, which may be one of the most famous spots in Tokyo. This is the location of the famous Shibuya Scramble, this massive intersection where thousands of cars and people cross in a chaotic coordinated rhythm. It's one of the most busy intersections in the world and watching the hoard of people stop and go is mesmerizing.
Another famous site here is the Hachiko statue. For those unfamiliar, the story of Hachiko is a classic Japanese story about the loyalty of the titular dog. For us Americans, you may have seen the movie Hachi: A Dog's Tale with Richard Gere which adapts the story in a language we can understand. In fact, that's one of my friends favorite movies and I don't even think he's seen half of it. If that's not loyalty, I don't know what is. The statue itself is right outside the station and we had to wait in line to take a picture, but it was well worth it to show our respect to this oh so loyal companion.
Lastly, Shibuya is also a big shopping district with many big name stores having a location here. Places like IKEA, Swatch, Nintendo, Ray Band etc. all have big flagship stores here. We explored some shops and such. Realistically, it's not that much different than other districts in Tokyo, but everything is sized up for sure.
The Nintendo Store was really neat even though it was packed with people.
This is my best attempt at blending in. I think I pulled it off.
Our final stop on my last day in Tokyo was Yokohama, which isn't in Tokyo. Whoops. It's a coastal city about a 45 minute train ride from the Tokyo. It's Japan's second largest city known for several things such as it's expansive Chinatown and botanical gardens. However, our goal to go to the Cup Noodle Museum (I hope that's pretty self explanatory). Even though it was all in Japanese, it was still a fun place to check out. It had neat displays of all the different sorts of Cup Noodle products and a lot of it was chronicling the life of Momofuku Ando, the inventor of Cup Noodles. It was actually quite refreshing to just go into a museum that I knew nothing about and just learn some interesting things.
We then watched a movie in the nearby theater on a whim to round out our trip there. The whole thing was very impromptu, but it was fun nonetheless.
Oh, one last note. This had to be the windiest place I've ever been too. The gusts almost knocked us over multiple times, it was ridiculous.
That wrapped up my Golden Week. I said goodbye to my Mom as I returned to Nagoya. It was a really great week and in hindsight we did a lot of stuff! In the moment, it didn't really feel like we did all that much, but writing this all out and looking at all the pictures convinced me otherwise.
Just to wrap up, here are some other miscellaneous things we did that didn't fit anywhere else.
We all know Pokémon right? Even if you don't know anything about it, I'm sure you've at least heard of it. It is the most popular media franchise of all time, and it started in good ol' Japan. If you thought Pokémon was popular in the States, you haven't seen anything. Almost every store has some sort of Pokémon stuff like figurines, plushies, snacks, clothing etc. However, the pinnacle of it all is the Pokémon Center, which is the main official store for all your Pokémon needs in Japan. There is one in most major cities, and as a fan of the series myself, I knew I had to go.
So we went to the Pokémon Center in Kyoto & Tokyo and it's filled wall to wall with plushies and merchandise. Each one was different and some had massive lines to even get in. For people who don't care about Pokemon, feel free to skip this part.
These were all taken in Kyoto. The Kimono Pikachu was surrounded by people taking pictures of it. Very cute.
Little known fact, I'm roughly 3 Pikachus tall.
This was the line to check out at the Mega Pokémon Center, the largest Pokémon Center in Japan. The line to get in was about twice the size.
One thing we did was walk into a Daiso store whenever we saw one. Daiso is the most popular chain of 100-Yen stores in Japan. This is their version of a Dollar Tree or such. The main difference between this and Dollar Tree is that Daiso is actually good. I actually bought a lot of basic supplies there when I first arrived like plates, cups, silverware etc. However, for the most part, we didn't go there to buy anything we go to look at all the funny English.
Japan is already obssessed with plastering English all over the place. Apparently, it makes something look more "premium" if it has English on it. It basically boils down to signs everywhere having open-ended statements that are hilarious. For example, a restaurant may have a giant sign that says "Good Food Here All Time", and you chuckle and keep walking. Daiso (and similar stores) do this all the time, resulting in some comedy gold. Everything there is a "nice" and "beautiful", it's so funny. Here are some my favorites. Enjoy.
As before, here is all the food that was worth taking a picture of.
This is Donburi, which is a basically meat over rice, specifically this had ginger, pork and onions. I ate this at 9:00pm after arriving in Kyoto and it was way better than it had any right being.
This is your classic pork Gyoza. One of my favorites.
This is Yakiniku, also known as Japanese BBQ. It's where you order meat and you cook it in front of you to your own liking. As a big meat guy, this was great.
This is conveyer belt sushi, which is quite the experience. You order on the screen and then a few minutes later your order will roll up on the belt (on the left in this picture). I got chicken while my Mom actually ate sushi.
This was a combo meal at a restaurant in Tokyo Station. It had teriyaki chicken (which I don't think is something Japanese people eat often), fried chicken, rice and miso soup.
One of the biggest surprises food wise is how much Japanese people like "Hamburg Steak" which is just a ground beef patty. It was in Shibuya and you cook it yourself and dip it in sauces to your liking. Combine that with unlimited rice and you got yourself a fantastic meal.
This was pizza I got at an "Italian" place. The Japanese version of "Italian" food is very different than what I would consider Italian. It's generally just Japanese food with more cheese. However this place wasn't too bad and was the most "authentic" stuff I've had. Not my favorite though.
And now for the fast food corner! There are several American fast food franchises in Japan and I tried some so here they are.
Good ol' Micky D's. Overall, it's better than what we have in the States, but it wasn't amazing or anything. The portions were smaller and the price was similar so it's a worse value. However, the ice cream was awesome. Very creamy and their machine wasn't broken.
KFC is very popular in Japan. You may have heard the story about how Japanese people eat KFC for Christmas. That's a whole can of worms if you want to look into it. In my opinion KFC in America is borderline inedible, so this is much better. However, it wasn't very crispy which was disappointing. Also, they give you a biscuit with honey which is a unique side item.
Lastly is Dominos Pizza. Pizza is a luxury in Japan, so this pizza is expensive! They also highly incentivize buying a combo, which means you tend to get more side items than you do pizza. It's just a bit bizarre. Also, it is very rare to be able to customize an order in Japan, so if you want to choose your own toppings, they charge you extra. The pizza itself is pretty good though, you just don't get much of it.
That's all I got for you all this time. At the rate I'm going, I probably will do 2-3 more of these before I leave. My June is looking a little empty in terms of trips and such, so we'll see how much I'll have to report on next time.
Once again, thank you all for your support. I really do appreciate the kind words about these updates. They take a bit of time, but it's worth it. It's hard to believe, but my time here is already almost halfway done. We have mid term exams in about a week! But I still have a long way to go and a lot more to see and I'll be sure to keep this updated.
Until next time!